Anyway, the beautiful weather is making me feel SO HAPPY and excited about life and a bit manic! I’m also a little stressed with a lot of work, but I took the morning off on Saturday to get chores done and do fun springy stuff. Woke up at 8:00 am!! on a Saturday! and we hopped on our bikes and rode to Chacarita, where we stopped at our new favorite bakery and got some crusty bread plus some amazing almond croissants and pain-au-chocolat. Next stop, El Galpon, where we drank a cup of coffee and a big glass of orange-raspberry juice on the front bench, basking in the warm and glorious sunshine… then headed inside to stock up on farm-fresh veggies, cheese, eggs, smoked ham, etc! Laden down with beautiful produce, we raced back home and dropped off the groceries, picked up the dogs and took them over to the vet for bathing (yes, our vet washes dogs!) … then headed over to Av. Santa Fe to search for some kind of improvised compost container. We’ve been wanting to do composting on our terrace for ever, but we’ve never had a good container. Now that it’s warm out, we’ve bought a few plants and we’re starting to trick out our garden for the coming summer! We settled on a big blue plastic laundry hamper which is kind of ugly but it was the cheapest thing we could think of. I hope it’ll work! Came back home, picked up the soft, clean dogs and spent a few happy hours on the terrace planting stuff! We now have tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, peppers, rosemary, thyme, lavender, cilantro, and some lovely flowers underway in our container garden.

We drank mint iced tea and listened to stories and songs from Townes Van Zandt while planting and digging around in the dirt. Dogs rolled in dirt to get all the “clean” off. Ate some tasty snacks and sandwiches with our plunder from the farmer’s market. Good times.

stencil/graffiti mural in Carabobo subte station

every now and then friends ask me about art-and-design-related stuff to do and things to see in Buenos Aires. It’s fun answering this question; the city is bountiful of eye candy. I’ve been sticking together a rough and of course incomplete list of memorable places and things to suggest to like-minded design enthusiasts, here’s what i’ve got so far:

DESIGN SHOPS:

Papelera Palermo = Palermo Soho. beautiful space selling handmade and hand-printed papers, notebooks, art books, etc… retail store at Honduras 4945. they also have a workshop where they give classes (and make most of the stuff sold in the shop) at Cabrera 5227

CouCou

CouCou = gurruchaga 1783. Palermo Soho. very cute little shop that carries lots of fun objects made by independent designers: home goods, stationery, jewelry, lots of cute tote-bags, baby clothes, etc. The owner Emi is very nice and friendly! She has a great eye, the store always looks super cute and she has a wonderful selection of interesting things!

Fabrolab = Nicaragua 4677. Palermo Soho. big space with some of everything.

Calma Chicha = Honduras 4925. Palermo. home & interior stuff, modern poppy vibe. i think they specialize in argentine-made goods.

Pic Nic = Nicaragua 6080. Palermo Hollywood. patterned wallpaper, pillows, etc. Not really original designs, but fun and colorful.

Cualquier Verdura

Cualquier Verdura = Humberto 1º 517. San Telmo. a beautiful house filled with good-quality vintage stuff, tchotchkes, kitsch, toys, games, a few clothes, mid-century modern furniture, fun stuff. Even the bathroom is fitted out with fun vintage stuff for sale.
Wussman = Venezuela 570. San Telmo. art gallery in the front and a wonderful stationery shop with fine papers and gifts and a letterpress printing operation in the back and an art-books-store downstairs.

El Mercado de las Pulgas

El Mercado de las Pulgas = Niceto Vega y Dorrego. Palermo Hollywood. Flea market with lots of modern home stuff.

La Pasionaria = Godoy Cruz 1541. Palermo Soho. wonderful warehouse filled with a jumble of vintage 20th century objects, , Palermo Soho. (open 4pm-8pm mon-fri, 11-8 sat)

Canasta = Delgado 1235. Colegiales. a tiny little gallery/bookstore/shop. minimal, eclectic and cute. open tues-sat 2pm-7pm.

CLOTHING:

Lupe = El Salvador 4657, Palermo Soho

and on the same block, Rapsodia. El Salvador 4757, Palermo Soho

AY Not Dead = Soler 4193, Palermo Soho

Pesqueria = armenia 1493. Palermo Soho.

Juana de Arco = El Salvador 4762. Palermo Soho.

Objeto = gurruchaga 1335. Palermo Soho.

Tramando = Rodriquez Peña 1973. Recoleta. interesting textiles and clothing by designer Martin Churba.

DAM = Honduras 4775. Palermo Soho. wacky stuff.

CAFES / RESTAURANTS / etc

Lepi Boulangerie = Roseti 1769. Chacarita. Cute bakery.

Oui Oui = Nicaragua 6068. Palermo Hollywood. coffee shop, bakery, café

Arevalito = Arevalo 1478. Palermo Hollywood. Delicious, filling, homey vegetarian café. Good coffee too. And they serve food all day long (many other BsAs restaurants close down between 2pm and 8pm which often causes visiting yankees searching for an afternoon snack to become hunger-crazed and desperate during these hours!)

an uncharacteristically quiet afternoon at Ølsen

Olsen = Gorriti 5870. Palermo Hollywood. lofty scandinavian restaurant, good brunch and impressive design (from the menus to the plates to the architecture of the restaurant itself)

Milion = Parana 1048. Recoleta. Cool, fancy bar/restaurant in a converted mansion. It’s a beautiful space. It’s always nice to have a mojito in the upstairs bar. (the bar-top is glowing alabaster!)

Cusic = El Salvador 6016. Palermo Hollywood. Cute, quiet café with two nice gardens.

Home Hotel = Honduras 5860. really cute boutique hotel with a nice bar/restaurant in the back, lovely view of the garden and pool from the café, i think in nice weather you can eat in the garden. It’s a great spot for brunches or afternoon tea. They have different cool wallpaper in each room, it’s worth taking a peek around. And they have a wonderful spa if you want to drop a bit of cash on a massage or a day of pampering.

La Catedral

La Catedral = Sarmiento 4006 (corner of Medrano). Almagro. Scruffy, dark & atmospheric tango bar, upstairs in an immense dusty warehouse.

COFFEE SHOPS & BOOKSTORES etc

Eterna Cadencia = Honduras 5574. Palermo Hollywood.a beautiful space, bookstore and cafe.

El Boutique del Libro

El Boutique del Libro = Thames 1762. Palermo Soho. another cozy bookstore/cafe. A great place to take a break from wandering around Palermo, or to bring your laptop and get some work done while you drink coffee. (ED: since this post was written, this bookstore has changed names. El Boutique del Libro opened a new location on Plaza Armenia; this bookstore is now operating under a different name but is otherwise unchanged!)

Helena = Nicaragua 4816. Palermo Soho. Cute coffee shop (no books)

El Ateneo

Ateneo Grand Splendid = Santa Fe 1860. Recoleta. This is a really impressive bookstore, converted from an old movie theater, and the café is located on the stage!

ART & GALLERIES

Espacio Fundación Telefonica = Arenales 1540. Recoleta. Arts foundation with exhibitions in gallery spaces, also an extensive library of art books, workshops, events, etc.

Fundacion PROA = Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929. La Boca. Contemporary arts museum & gallery space

Hollywood in Cambodia = Thames 1885. Palermo Soho. Graffiti art gallery and bar. Open 5pm – 9pm

Jardin Oculto = Venezuela 926. San Telmo. Art gallery

713 ARTE CONTEMPORANEO = Defensa 713. San Telmo. Art gallery.
http://www.arte713.com

Centro Cultural Borges / Galerias Pacifico = Viamonte esquina San Martín. Centro. art museum (CC Borges) is located upstairs from a very luxe shopping mall (Galerias Pacifico) in a beautiful old building.

MISC:

Graffiti Mundo tour = sounds like fun! It’s a tour of walls, galleries and studios to learn about different artists in the Buenos aires graffiti scene.

A FEW INTERESTING LOCAL DESIGNERS AND ARTISTS:

KOMware

Ana Laura Perez

Patricia Tewel

Lala Ladcani

Marina de Caro (Bola de Nieve)

http://www.proyectopanda.com.ar/

Cristian Turdera

For years we’ve been talking about going out to Flores (a slightly-off-the-beaten-track barrio of Buenos Aires) and searching for Korean food. Apparently there’s been a Korean community in Flores for decades, but it isn’t a touristy destination like Chinatown; it’s totally the opposite. Most of the restaurants are not well marked, most of the neighborhood’s signage is only in Korean, and we heard that outsiders are not overly welcome and restaurant owners are reluctant to unlock their doors for non-Koreans (in Buenos Aires most restaurants are locked and you have to ring a doorbell to be let in). Apparently there is a notoriously impoverished and dangerous shanty-town right next to the Korean neighborhood, which means it’s not the safest area to go wandering around aimlessly. Additionally, it’s a long-ish trip to get out there and we didn’t even know exactly where to go, so it’s been hard to get motivated to make the trip out there, knowing that we might never find a restaurant, or might get turned away hungry. Then a few weeks ago my friend Heather mentioned she’d had a good meal in Koreatown and gave me some directions for how to get there.

So, Saturday morning we did a bit of online research (see helpful links below) and we set out with high hopes and only a bit of apprehension. It turned out to be an easy and DELICIOUS trip! We took the A line of the subte (blue line) out to the end of the line, the Carabobo stop. We walked down Carabobo towards the autopista 25 de Mayo and crossed under the highway, and soon started seeing signs in Korean and a few restaurants with their doors open! The neighborhood was definitely quiet and felt kind of deserted, but there were delicious lunchtime smells wafting about. We ended up at Han Gu Kuan, 2135 Saraza just around the corner from Carabobo. The old guy at the door gave us a bit of stink-eye (perhaps because we arrived at 2:00, which is a bit late for lunchtime) but he let us in, and the friendly waiter immediately started bringing us food! They have a set menu, which makes it easy, no decisions to make! We started out with a bowl of medium-spicy soup with tofu, then came a plate of deep-fried sweet potatoes, a small iceberg-lettuce salad, a platter of delicious rice noodles with beef and shredded veggies, and the usual huge array of small dishes with kimchi and Korean tapas-style snacks: eggy potato salad, fried fish, spicy bean sprouts, VERY spicy watercress salad, mysterious fishy things and oniony things and savory things and spicy things, plus a large bowl of cold, cloudy liquid with slices of giant-radish-like things in it. I probably should know what that was but I have no idea. THEN arrived the MOUNTAIN of marinated beef! I honestly think they gave us lunch for 4 people, even though we were just two. There was SO much food and a WEALTH of beef. They put a bucket of hot coals into our tabletop grill and we spread our own raw beef strips on there and it was SO DELICIOUS! the other Korean restaurants we’ve been to in Buenos Aires gave small portions of beef Gulgogi and we always leave wanting more beef! This time it was difficult to finish all the beef, but it was so so so delicious we managed to eat it all. Finally, they brought a few mandarin oranges for dessert. All this, along with a half-liter of Quilmes beer and a huge bottle of Sprite, turned out to cost $100 pesos even. Not terribly cheap, but totally worth it. We kind of had the feeling that we got the old “Gringo Tax” (that is, the same meal would’ve cost less if we were locals!) but it was still a great deal. I really want to go back again, like, tomorrow! I could totally see myself going back every single weekend, it was soooooooo good. Definitely even better than Bi-Won, which was previously our favorite Korean place in Buenos Aires.

here are a few relevant links we came across:
http://randompanda.blogspot.com/2008/08/korea-town-barrio-coreano.html
http://www.saltshaker.net/20060128/protection-of-the-cabbage
http://www.tableconversation.com/2008/09/korean-food-in.html

We were advised that Avenida Castañares is the avenue that divides the Barrio Coreano from the nearby villa, so one might want to think twice before wandering further in this direction.

Sarkis is a huge middle-eastern restaurant on the edge of Palermo/Villa Crespo. The prices are great and the food is really delicious. The menu is huge – we always pick a half-dozen different appetizer-type things (favorites: puré de remolacha=grated beets; laban=delicious yogurt-type dip; couscous; baba ghanoush; keppe=ground meat with mint; not hummus because it tastes like peanuts), plus their tasty falafel and unbelievably delicious grilled lamb kebabs. If the menu is overwhelming you can usually ask the waiter to just bring a bunch of food to share, and they’ll bring you a great selection of good stuff. Sarkis is always crowded, always noisy, and usually has a long line to get in. Show up early, put your name on the waiting list, maybe bring a beer to drink while you wait in line. They’re good at accommodating big groups since the place is so huge.

Bangalore is a British-style pub serving tasty curries and pub food downstairs, and more formal Indian dinners upstairs. Since it’s right around the corner from our new apartment, we have been eating and drinking there a lot. It’s homey, comfy, delicious and relatively cheap. Maybe not a spectacular highlight if you’re just visiting BA for a week, but if you’re here for a while, you’re feeling homesick for some decent beer and spicy curries, Bangalore is so perfect. The pumpkin curry and jalafrezi are so delicious. The prices for the daily curry specials are pretty good (as of 2/10, $28 for lots of curry, jasmine rice, and soft warm indian bread) and there’s a curry sampler that’s even cheaper! ($16 for four different curries in little dishes, with pita slices which are usually a little dried-out but hey it’s cheap!) though the quality can be a little inconsistent, especially for the bargain curry sampler. We also love the Thali dinners for two, both vegetarian and non-veg options that include four different curries, rice, bread, good salad and these tasty sweet-corn fritters. If you order the spicy curries here, they are actually spicy!!! unlike most other restaurants in Argentina. The beer selection is better than average – they have tasty Antares Scotch on tap, and the pitchers of gin & tonic are delicious and also a great deal. There’s also other pub food like nachos, burgers, wraps, etc. Bangalore gets mad crowded on the weekends and basically every night after 9:00, so if you want to eat in the pub downstairs, show up early, like 7:00, or else expect to wait an hour or two at the bar and drink a few pints standing at the crowded bar while you wait to pounce on a table. Upstairs they have a different menu, a bit pricier. You can’t get the cheaper pub-food items upstairs. Best to make a reservation if you want to sit upstairs on the weekend.

Cusic is a cute, quiet, homey cafe with some lovely outdoor spaces. It’s on a deserted block in Palermo Hollywood, and you have to ring a big old metal bell to be let in. You enter through the front patio, passing under the boughs of a beautiful willow tree (when the weather is warm you can eat at one of the tables under this tree) and inside is a nice big open space with plenty of tables, the menu is hand-written on giant chalk-boards and there is also a pair of comfy couches around a coffee-table with magazines, an upstairs loft with larger tables, and a sweet little backyard with an herb garden and another table where you can eat outside. I think the drinks are the best thing here – they have great fruit juices and smoothies, ginger lemonade, iced tea, a great big frappuchino, hot teas, submarinos, coffees, etc. The food is pretty simple cafe / comfort food, not amazing but decent. I usually like their vegetarian food better than their meat options. I mostly get the Frida Wrap, which is cream cheese, american cheese slices, tomato, cilantro and avocado, inside of a homemade flour tortilla, with a generous green salad or delicious potato wedges. They have great breakfasts with eggs and smoked salmon and the potatoes are always great. They have nice cinnamon rolls (uncommon in argentina!) and bagel-like things. The prices are okay, if not very cheap… like $8 or 10 pesos for a big smoothie, $20 for a sandwich with salad, or $20 for an enormous breakfast with eggs, salmon, tea, juice, etc. If the price isn’t rock-bottom cheap and the food isn’t always spectacular, they hit a good sweet spot where the food is generally satisfying, the prices aren’t too bad and it’s totally worth it just to sit there drinking tea and enjoying the beautiful space and friendly staff. I come here a lot to work, just to have a cup of coffee and a muffin and sit quietly working for hours on end.

Arevalito is our other neighborhood super-favorite spot. It is literally just a spot, not much bigger! Basic little vegetarian hippie bistro kind of place, they only have about 8 chairs and it feels a bit cramped inside – since we live around the corner we often do take-out. But on warm days they put tables out on the sidewalk which is actually pretty fantastic and comfortable. The food is home-cooked vegetarian, almost always quite delicious. They do great, filling casseroles, stews and pasta dishes, good salads and sandwiches, and a tasty ginger-mint lemonade. They have good coffees and breakfast options, awesome desserts and baked goods, great lunches and dinners too. The prices are excellent!! Very affordable. The menu is smallish, they hand-write the menu each day with different (whimsically named) items every day. Any variation on a moroccan stew is usually great. The “DF” meal is not authentic mexican by any stretch, but is usually a tasty, fun assortment of good fresh stuff. Their pastas are always excellent, especially the creamy mushroom pasta. The kitchen is open so you see your food being cooked next to you, and while the service can be “argentine style” (that means occasionally slow and forgetful), the folks are generally friendly and lovable. The chef used to run a vegetarian cafe in Holland in the seventies! Added bonus: unlike most places, Arevalito is open during the afternoon, they may not have a full menu during the afternoon but they can always come up with a sandwich or something delicious and filling.

Bi Won: a Korean restaurant in Once (Junin 548, 4372-1146, cash only, closed sundays). I think it’s pretty authentic Korean but i’m not an expert. The star of the show is Korean barbecue, unbelievably tender and delicious marinated strips of beef or pork. They’ll bring you a grill to cook it yourself on your table, or they will cook it for you in the kitchen. There’s also tasty noodle soups, dumplings, bi-bim-bap, soju, and lots of other stuff I’ve never ordered. As soon as you sit down they will bring you a delicious array of 10 or 12 little dishes, like Korean tapas, ranging from pickled spicy cabbage kim-chi to potato salad to seaweed and sometimes a dish of tiny crispy whole fishes. It’s a little expensive but totally totally worth it. The ambience and decor are a bit weird, but the waiters are always really nice. ::EDIT: since posting this, we’ve discovered WAY more exciting Korean food in Flores. Bi-Won is still good though if you’re in the neighborhood and don’t have time/energy to go all the way out to Flores::

Green Bamboo: a fancy spot in Palermo Hollywood that serves an Argentine version of Vietnamese food. They have lots of special cocktails; try the Green Velvet, a basil-ginger-saki-vodka cocktail. The entrees are huge and very tasty, though they are more “vietnamese-inspired” than authentic. Mike has gotten excellent beef dishes, such as “Bo Luc Lac, sauteed tenderloin beef cubes marinated with lemongrass, honey and sweet chilli,” and I’ve tried a few seafood and vegetable dishes which are all delicious. There is a dessert, ripe bananas wrapped in thin super-crispy warm fried flaky dough, involving chocolate sauce, vanilla ice cream, and an awkward cloud of hair-thin spun-caramel perched on top, which is unbelievably delicious! I am drooling just thinking about it. The prices are a bit expensive ($35-$50 pesos per entree as of 2/08, which I’m sure will continue to rise) and the kitchen is VERY VERY VERY slow and it’s painful having to wait an hour for the food to arrive, but it’s always really tasty when it does turn up. We really only go to this place when we need a place to bring guests, since it’s too expensive (and slow) to eat here all the time. It’s a comfy place with kind of cute and kitschy decor, a few fake bamboo plants and beaded curtains and pretty paper lanterns.

Antigua Querencia: our favorite basic Argentine neighborhood parrilla. It’s right around the corner from our house in Almagro, and delicious and cheap. We can share one bife de lomo, a punto, with sweet potato fries and a lettuce-tomato-onion salad. They serve ice cream with chocolate sauce for dessert. Everything’s perfect, the only sad thing is that (like almost every other restaurant in BA) they don’t have ketchup for the fries. We usually make a reservation because it’s pretty popular.

Artemisia is a vegetarian-and-fish restaurant on Cabrera in Palermo Soho. It’s great to visit an oasis of flavorful, fresh, healthy, veggie-centric food in a city of steak and pizza. The best part is before dinner you get a plate with different kinds of warm, freshly-baked homemade bread! and some tasty white bean spread to put on top. The ginger lemonade is really really delicious, sweet and tart and spicy! We’ve loved the salmon raviolis (no dough – each ravioli is made of two thin slices of salmon, stuck together, with a little packet of mushrooms and veggies inside) and had a few delicious polenta dishes, one of them included sauteed greens, tomatoes and brown-sugar-candied garlic. The salads are always great. The only mediocre thing was an “indian rice” or “hindu rice” or something like that which was salty, boring and bland. But everything else is always great. They have a nice list of organic wines and an impressive selection of herbal teas. The menus are cute but a little hard to read; they are handwritten on a stack of small brown paper bags. ::EDIT: as of 2010 there is a SECOND location of Artemisia opening up in Palermo Hollywood, at the corner of Gorriti and Arevalo, conveniently located two blocks from our current apartment!! can’t wait to go check it out::

Olsen is a “nordic” restaurant in Palermo Hollywood, one of the few places here that we’ve found a satisfyingly huge and tasty weekend brunch. (They offer a long list of imported vodkas, but I’m not such a vodka person, so I’ve stuck to the food.) My favorite favorite dish here (i think it’s only available on the dinner menu) is smoked pork neck with cranberry sauce (or maybe it’s lingonberry sauce, to go with the Ikea theme?) which is more flavorful and tender than any pork I have ever tried before. If you like bacon, you will be very happy with their pork neck. It’s not all chewy and greasy like bacon though. It’s just purely awesome. For brunch, they have a cute and tricky menu/placemat which offers different-sized combinations of tasty brunch options. Their crispy golden chunky potatoes are my favorites, although (of course) i wish they could give me ketchup with that. They have a pork option for breakfast which is basically as delicious as the pork neck dinner entree. I have good luck ordering the daily special for brunch, it’s always been super tasty and very very big. Last time we ordered waffles but were a little disappointed with small, hard, waffles and of course no maple syrup (why am i so obsessed with sauces?). They have nice fresh green salads, and a cute “smorgasbord” which is 5 little nibbles, small bits of bread with spreads and toppings, it’s expensive and not filling at all but it’s cute. Olsen is kind of pricey in general but it’s always really satisfying! The scandinavian-modern design of the space seems kind of overly dramatic, but I do like the feeling of walking in off the street into their front garden, which has some tables and seats in it, and usually if the weather is OK they open up the front wall of the restaurant so that the front of the restaurant feels kind of like it’s in the garden too.

Carlito’s: Corrientes 3100, close to Abasto Shopping (there’s a whole strip of Peruvian restaurants here, but we were told this is the best one and we are willing to believe it). A very popular Peruvian greasy-spoon serving amazingly delicious and cheap rotisserie chicken with spicy sauces on the side. They also serve aji de gallina (shredded chicken in sauce that’s actually spicy), ceviche, jalea (an enormous mountain of fried seafood), lots of seafood, fried-rice dishes, and even salchipapa, a giant platter of french-fries mixed with hot dog slices. Really, though, it’s all about the rotisserie chicken. I think it’s around $18 pesos to get a half-chicken with salad and french fries, which can easily feed 2 people and probably three. How do they make that chicken so juicy and tender and flavorful?! Everything is served with two different creamy sauces on the side, a sweet tangy watery one, and a hot spicy exciting one that tastes like green jalapeños. Mike is so obsessed with Carlito’s that he actually wants to eat there every day. Really. Every day. My favorite thing is chicha, a thin sweet dark purple clove-flavored drink which is supposedly corn-based. It reminds me of Christmas-flavored kool-aid, plus little sweet fruity chunks in the bottom. Only $1 a cup. The eating experience at Carlito’s is usually a little intense, it’s one big room, brightly lit, plastic tables and chairs, always completely packed, lots of kids running around, loud cumbia playing on the jukebox, guys squeezing between tables selling bootleg DVD’s and the waiters somehow scurrying through it all, bringing your tasty chicken very quickly.

Sudestada is an uber-minimal, clean, modern place in Palermo Hollywood that serves slightly-more-authentic Southeast Asian food. It’s one of my favorite places to eat, although on a few occasions we’ve had serious disappointments there. Dinner is pretty expensive so we mostly stick to the reasonable lunch special. $28 pesos gets you a drink (choose the tangy Thai lemonade!) and a salad or dumplings, plus your choice from a limited menu of entrees. We always always always go with Bo Xao which is a smoky lemongrass stir-fried beef with potatoes and peppers over rice, and the noodle dish, I forgot the name but I think it’s the only noodle dish on the lunch menu. Sometimes I get the battered, deep-fried sweet & sour fish, which is actually REALLY delicious despite its alarming raspberry-kool-aid color. The waiters here are so serious and the decor is so serious, the whole package initially came off as cold and inhospitable, but after many many many happy lunch-hours spent here, I have grown to love almost everything about this place. Except for the vegetable fried rice, do not order that unless you are a fan of the cubed-carrots-corn-and-peas veggie mix from the freezer section, plus rice and no flavor. Go with the noodles or beef!

La Cabrera: favorite place for niiiiiice Argentine beef. It’s a fancy parrilla, prices are way higher than the average neighborhood parrilla but the meat is SO. GOOD. And they’re accustomed to foreigners so they ask how you want your steak – “a punto” means medium-rare. (traditionally argentine beef is cooked aggressively, leaving no trace of pink whatsoever, and leaving the meet too tough for my taste.) La Cabrera’s bife de lomo (i believe in English that is tenderloin) serves two people easily. The bife de chorizo could probably serve three. Usually we order only two or three steaks for four people, and expect to have leftovers. Bife de Lomo con Tomillo (thyme-rubbed beef) is fantastic. On top of the great beef, every steak comes with a half-dozen little side dishes, you never know what you’ll get – they’re often delicious, sometimes a little odd. Common sides are roasted garlic in a brown sugar glaze; pickled quail eggs; homemade warm applesauce; garlicky mashed potatoes; black and green olive tapenades; some of the weirder ones involve mystery vegetables with too much mayo. The service is usually friendly and many of the waiters speak some English. They only take reservations for an 8:00 seating, so if you have no reservation, or want to eat later, you show up and wait in line, usually a long wait but with a little luck they will give you a glass of champagne while you wait.

ok, got to get back to work. coming soon:
Casa Felix amazing vegetarian, closed-door restaurant in the chef’s private home. interesting indigenous ingredients. expensive.
Oui Oui french-style cafe & bakery. great breakfast & lunch, crowded on weekends. good for sitting and working on weekdays – they have wifi.
Thymus expensive, indulgent, incredibly delicious prix-fixe dinner. argentine / european food.
milion beautiful, cool bar and restaurant in an old mansion in Recoleta. I think it’s best to come here for cocktails, the bar is great. Dinner in the back yard can be awesome, it’s a gorgeous building, but the service can be weird and the food isn’t cheap.
status peruvian food, nicer than carlito’s (they have tablecloths!) really good prices.
osaka asian-peruvian fusion. kind of pretentious and super-modern, expensive, but delicious!
ocho 7 ocho “speakeasy” bar, really fancy whiskey selection, all kinds of interesting cocktails, and pretty good dinners – great lamb burger. kind of expensive.
Home boutique hotel with a cute little bar/cafe that caters to foreigners. very cute garden, gorgeous place to sit for a cocktail or a cup of tea. they also have amazing wallpapers, and a spa where you can get a little massage. cafe prices are OK (massages are pricey)
Olivas i Lustres really fun and weird and interesting place with a fixed-price tasting menu for two. The place is really cozy and cute, the tiny little dishes on the tasting menu are all about unusual presentation and some of them are excellent, though not all.The food is sometimes delicious and sometimes a bit odd, but it’s as much about the aesthetics and the experience.
Bereber moroccan food. beautiful place, indulgent food and atmosphere, kind of expensive
La Reina Kunti super-hippie place with vegetarian “indian” food that’s not consistently indian-like nor all that great. But some things are tasty, the atmosphere is lovely, it’s in a beautiful old house, it’s a cozy and fun place to hang out with friends.
Spring weird vegetarian buffet place.
bio famous vegetarian cafe in Palermo. food is good but more expensive and not as good as arevalito!
la dorita good Argentine steak place. Less expensive – but not as good as – La Cabrera.
casa china “health food” store in Chinatown (Belgrano) that serves hot, tasty, asian-style vegetarian takeout food from a window, only on weekends at lunchtime. tasty dumplings, rice buns, excellent soup, other good stuff. there are a few other places around chinatown that have similar tasty street food/takeout stuff.
chungo = BEST ice cream in a city full of amazing ice cream. crocatta de mani = crunchy peanut brittle ice cream. SO GOOD. ask to sample flavors – it’s free and you can try as many as you want!

if anybody’s coming to visit Buenos Aires, it’s good to know a few things about restaurants here. Few restaurants accept credit cards, so bring cash. Try to make reservations, as lots of the best places will be booked up if you just wander in at dinnertime. A dinner reservation usually gets the table for the entire night. Prices go up all the time because of inflation. Service is generally slower than it is in the usa, waiters in the less fancy restaurants aren’t used to a lot of tips and therefore don’t kiss ass or hustle too much. and people usually spend a long time over a meal, drinking coffee and chatting afterwards. Waiters will never bring your check until you ask for it, and you should hand money to the waiter rather than leaving it on the table. Sometimes a place can have great service and food one day, and poor service and bad-quality food another day! I think these things are not as consistent here as they are in the usa. Most restaurants close after lunch, around 2:30 or 3, and stay closed until dinner-time, around 8:00 or 8:30. If you’re hungry between 3:00 and 8:00 it can be hard to find a place to eat! Mostly only the standard-issue corner cafe-type places are open. www.guiaoleo.com is a great resource to help you find almost any restaurant (or type of food) you’re looking for. And this blog can be an interesting resource too.

SUNDAY
we had a big brunch (fresh raviolis filled with cheese and nut, and squash, mmm!) at my house and then went out to San Telmo to see the Sunday festivities and the flea market in Plaza Dorrego. There were lots of great tango groups and dancers performing along Defensa.

After a little rest time, we had a giant steak dinner at La Cabrera, in Palermo Soho. Aside from the typically delicious Argentine steaks (especially the thyme-rubbed bife de lomo!) they serve a zillion little side-dishes, such as squash puree, couscous, vegetable salads, and candied garlic, with every meal.

MONDAY
we went out for coffees and lunas con jamon & queso, and then set off on a self-guided walking tour (from this website) along Avenida de Mayo, starting at the Congress building and Plaza Congreso and continuing past the Barolo Building, across 9 de Julio, until Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada.

We ate lunch, of course, at Cafe Tortoni.
After lunch we had some tasty dark-chocolate-and-candied-orange-peel ice cream! and then did some resting, shopping, and wandering.
We had delicious and exciting tapas for dinner at De Olivas i Lustres on Gorriti in Palermo Soho, near our old apartment.

TUESDAY
we went to Recoleta Cemetery and then visited the church next door, the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. There is a neat little cloisters museum upstairs with a nice view looking out over the cemetery.

We had lunch at one of the cafes on the terraza at the Design Center (but avoided going inside!) and then looked at a few of the many interesting contemporary art exhibits at the Recoleta Cultural Center next door. Then we squeezed in a quick trip to the nearby Decorative Arts Museum, housed in a historical mansion on Libertador, before heading to the Alvear Palace Hotel for a very very very fancy afternoon tea, served by waiters wearing white gloves.

Stuffed with 14 courses of dainty sandwiches and fanciful, divine desserts and champagne (and, of course, tea), we dragged ourselves to tango classes at Luciana’s house.

I had never seen Judy and Richard dance, ever. As far as I know they have not danced in at least 30 years, probably more, but they seemed to have a great time at their first tango lesson with Luciana. This is an amazing testament to our dear Luciana’s delightful enthusiasm and skill as a teacher.

WEDNESDAY
we got up early and took an 8:30 ferry across the river to charming Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

Most of the day was spent wandering the shady cobblestones and lunching in a leafy courtyard at El Mesón de la Plaza. After sitting by the water for a bit and climbing the lighthouse for a view of the town, we headed back to the ferry.
Back in Buenos Aires, we stopped at Milion for mojitos at the alabaster bar, and ended up staying for a very tasty dinner in the courtyard under the full moon.

THURSDAY
In the morning we went to the Japanese Gardens in Palermo, and then walked over to the Botanical Garden, which was a huge hit with Judy. It is pretty exciting to realize that we’re way down in South America and all the plants and flora and fauna are completely different from what we’re used to!
We had a disappointing lunch at Sudestada, while a wild rainstorm turned the streets into high seas. Amy and George explored the fancy shops in Palermo Soho and found a truly amazing suede jacket at the Mariano Toledo store. We had another great tango class with Luciana and a tasty vegetarian meal at Artemisia.

Then some of us went on to La Catedral, where Amy and George danced! There was a surprise tango music performance by two guys, one singing and one playing guitar, they were really good!

FRIDAY

on Friday morning we went for a walk in the Ecological Reserve. I thought it would be a great opportunity for everyone to enjoy some natural beauty and bird-watching without leaving the city – but in fact it was pretty hot and muggy even in the morning, and there’s really no shade in the Ecological Reserve – it’s all tall grasses and shrubs but not many trees. We enjoyed cool breezes when we could get them by the waterside – then made a premature retreat back to civilization, feeling rather wilted and beaten by the heat.

We decided to just drink tea and rest for the afternoon, then in the evening we had a dinner date at Casa Saltshaker, a “closed-door” restaurant in Recoleta. The chef is Dan Perlman, a transplanted New Yorker who concocts a menu and cooks and serves dinner in his home, two nights a week, to a group of about 12 people. We chose to do the wine pairing menu, which was a great choice, we really enjoyed the various wines with each of the six courses. I can no longer remember exactly what we ate!! But I do remember was a fun evening, the food was tasty and Judy and Richard really enjoyed the experience.

SATURDAY

We took a trip to Tigre, one of my favorite areas around Buenos Aires. We went out for a boat ride around the delta on one of the beautiful wooden tourboats, and had a nice wander about the market. We took the Tren de la Costa home, which is supposed to be the fancier, touristy option, although I don’t really understand exactly what’s so special about it (except that it costs about five times more than the normal commuter train). Anyway, it turned out to be a bad choice, because our train struck a motorcycle and rider at one of the street crossings! So we got stuck waiting in the train for a long while, as the police came and cleared the wreck. It was sad and a bit confusing because the train conductor didn’t tell anybody what was going on, and all the train passengers were kind of freaking out while we were stuck there waiting. We finally got back to Buenos Aires later than planned, just in time for dinner in Palermo.

And then Sunday morning… everyone headed back to the USA! What a great trip! It was really really fun hosting the whole family here in Buenos Aires, I wish we could all do it again. Now that we’ve seen all the basics in Buenos Aires, next time I would definitely try to get out of the city and see more of the natural wonders that Argentina has to offer…

Yesterday was 9 de Julio, Argentina’s independence day, so we planned to spend the holiday at the Ecological Reserve but the weather turned out to be freezing cold and drizzly and then it started SNOWING!!! Mike did not believe me at first when I said it was snowing but then the little flakes got bigger and whiter and fluffier and started piling up into little tiny snow-drifts everywhere and there was no doubt about it. This is the first snowfall in Buenos Aires SINCE 1918!!! As night fell, the streets were completely full of people running around like crazy and dancing in the snow and every single person was taking pictures with cameras and cell phones and camcorders. There were flashes coming from every direction at once. Almost every window and door had people hanging out of it watching the snowy action! We got in a cab and the driver told us that at age 47, he had never ever seen snow before in real life. The snow was a nice diversion from the unfortunate fact that most buildings here are not adequately or heated to deal with anywhere near freezing temperatures. Last night we sat down to dinner inside a parilla with our coats and mittens on, and our breath was coming out in clouds over the table!