crossing the border to Bolivia

We turned up in La Quiaca yesterday evening and stayed in a weird but clean and cheap hotel for the night. Woke up early to make the border crossing, in hopes of getting to the train station in time to get tickets for this afternoon’s train. The border crossing was OK, waited in line with a bunch of other backpackers to exit Argentina, then walked across a high bridge and waited in another line to enter Bolivia. Wish we’d known in advance that we were supposed to have brought extra passport photos for our Bolivia tourist visa, but we got it worked out without too much trouble.

crossing the bridge that separates La Quiaca, Argentina from Villazon, Bolivia

Immediately across the border into Bolivia, the city got kind of crazy and intense! The street is super crowded, there are tons of money-changing places and little shops offering every possible kind of bright colored plastic stuff, giant sacks of coca leaves, old ladies dressed in skirts and bowler hats, squatting beside the street selling steaming pots of stew and rice that looks delicious. Intense smells of stewing meat, sweet kool-aid smells, and toxic solvent smells all mixed together. We tripped over a furry little severed-goat-foreleg which was lying in the middle of the street. We made our way up from the border into Villazon, and took a long sweaty walk with our stupid heavy packs all the way to the train station, to find that it’s closed – train service is suspended because of heavy rains. Backtracked to the bus station and bought tickets for the next train to Tupiza, checked our packs in the very dodgy looking bus station (As of press date I am not sure whether or not we will ever see our packs again. I will admit that I would be a bit relieved to find them gone). Then we had 9 hours to kill in Villazon. Wandered into the public market which was honestly really awesome and fun. Another crazy jumble of people and things and foods and smells and sounds. People speak spanish here, but we also heard indigenous dialects (probably Quechua?) that we couldn’t understand. There are tons of used clothes for sale here, stuff that comes from the United States with aid organizations, a lot of the items still have Salvation Army pricetags on them. We bought watermelon slices, roasted chicken, and since I’m almost done with my knitting project I got supplies for my next project- an embroidery hoop and floss, and a few used t-shirts to practice embroidery on. They sell everything in the market, it’s great. Then we hunkered down on a park bench to read and embroider for a while. Good, relaxing Saturday afternoon!

our first (and second) meal in Bolivia: roasted chicken. Pretty tasty. Note the Bolivian version of coca-cola which came with our meal.

we waited for a bus in the attic above the bus station. There was a pay bathroom (two Bolivianos = US$0.28) where you have to scoop water out of a giant bucket and dump it in the toilet bowl to flush. The waiting room doubled as the youth boxing club; they were setting up for a boxing match but unfortunately we had to catch our bus before the match started.

Humuhuaca, waiting for the bus

Bus is twenty-five minutes late, dusty gusts of wind and hot sun and heavy packs. Nun waiting next to me doesn’t seem bothered by any of it. Earlier there was a six-year-old futbol champion kicking a ball around next to us and giving me big toothless smiles every time he hit me in the leg, but he’s gone now. The last few days were beautiful, driving and hiking through red and pink and purple mountains, green river valleys, cacti and goats and llamas, eating lots of empanadas. Just said goodbye to Andrew and Vickie, who took the car back to Jujuy; we’re busing it and hoofing it from here on. Will write more later.

Quebrada de Humuhuaca

The Quebrada de Humuhuaca is the name of the valley that stretches from the town of Yala, north of the city of San Salvador de Jujuy, Argentina, up to the city of Humuhuaca, Argentina. AR Route 9 follows the Rio Grande up through the valley, and around the river is green and lush, while the mountains above are dry and dusty, with lots of cacti and brush and not much other vegetation. The valley is oriented more or less north-south, and as you drive north the elevation increases steadily. Purmamarca is near the southern end, Tilcara is around the middle, and the city of Humuhuaca is near the northern end. In between there are a few smaller towns, and a few groups of adobe houses, with farmers herding goats and llamas and growing corn and potatoes in terraced gardens.

Waking up in Purmamarca, we had a nice breakfast of bollo (homemade bread) and cafe con leche, then hiked up a big cliff to look out across the town of Purmamarca to the famous Cerro de Siete Colores, a stripey colored mountain behind the village.

climbing up

Purmamarca and the Cerro de Siete Colores

Driving around the Cerro de Siete Colores

Purmamarca Cemetery

Before leaving town, we took a drive around a kind of sketchy dirt road that goes around the Cerro de Siete Colors and stopped at the amazing and beautiful town cemetery. We decided to take a side-trip to visit the Salinas Grandes salt flats a few hours west of Purmamarca, along the road towards Chile. To get to the salt flats we had to basically drive up out of the river valley and across the mountain range, onto the high altiplano. It’s a crazy switchback stretch of road called the Cuesta de Lipan, it’s a really dramatic ascent (the high point of the pass is 4,170 meters) but the road is two lanes and it’s in good condition.

Cuesta de Lipan

above the clouds

Salinas Grandes salt flats

We saw lots of llamas and vicuña and goats grazing happily among the cacti on the steep dry hills, and looking back over the road we could see clouds far below us. The Cuesta de Lipan ascends about 1,978 meters in elevation, then descends another 800 meters to the salt flats, over 17 kilometers of driving, which our tiny little rental car managed happily with Mike at the wheel. The salt flats are weird and unwelcoming, as soon as we arrived I felt blasted by heat and light and had to fight the urge to retreat as fast as possible. I remember feeling the same way when I drove through the salt flats in Utah long ago, it just feels intensely alien and unfriendly. We wrapped scarves and towels around our heads to fight the sun and glare, and wandered around a bit. There are square pools of salt water where salt has been harvested and water has seeped into the square hole. The salt underfoot is crunchy and crackly. There were some cool crystallized chunks of salt lying around. Unbelievably, there were some guys there selling handcrafts carved from salt blocks. They all had t-shirts wrapped around their heads too. I can’t imagine spending the whole day working there, yikes.
After the salt flats we had to descend by the same road again, and then headed further along the valley to Tilcara, another town along the Quebrada de Humuhuaca. It’s a slightly bigger tourist town, cute but a bit overstuffed with other backpackers. We found a place to stay at the local cooperative schoolhouse! The kids are on summer vacation, so they put beds in the classrooms and rent the little schoolhouse to travelers! It was a perfect place for us, with a kitchen and a barbecue in the back yard and beautiful fruit trees and gardens that the kids had planted. We felt super comfy and ended up staying a few nights in Tilcara.

our schoolhouse home in Tilcara

our schoolhouse home in Tilcara

There was lots of music and festivities for Three Kings Day, which I believe is a big holiday in all of Latin America. There were tons of kids in costumes marching around to drum and flute music all day, and there was a stage with performances in the town square, and there was a maypole dance which kind of blew my mind because I thought that maypoles were just a european folk tradition, I had no idea there were maypole dances in the Andes!

Three Kings Day in Tilcara

One day we did a great hike to a canyon with a waterfall called El Garganta del Diablo, it’s a 12km hike there and back, and there are really amazing views of the valley and striped mountains, there were only a few steep parts but it felt like we were so incredibly high up, we could look waaaayyy down into canyons below us and across to the pastel rows of mountains beyond.

Andrew and Vickie hike home from La Garganta del Diablo

Garganta del Diablo waterfall

Another day we climbed up to the Pukara, which is the site of a pre-incan walled city that’s been excavated and partially reconstructed by archaeologists from the University of Buenos Aires. The site is covered in cacti, with a maze of low stone houses that look very tidy and new. It was incredibly windy and surprisingly cold up there so I spent a lot of our visit hiding in the little stone huts trying to stay warm.

Salta, Jujuy

Friday afternoon (New Years day), we left Buenos Aires by sleeper bus. Traveling with Andrew and Vickie for this week, two of our friends who are visiting from New York. Our bus arrived in Salta on Saturday afternoon and we checked into Grandma’s hostel. Wandered around town in the rain, ate empanadas, tamales and humita (all regional specialties. Humita is cheesy creamy sweet corn mixture, wrapped in a corn husk and steamed). Went to visit two insanely ornate churches and spent some moments contemplating the intensity and strangeness of these looming, over-wrought and slightly creepy places.

the spectacularly fancy Convento de San Francisco, Salta

another grand and elaborate church in Salta

The sky cleared a bit and we went for a hike up the Cerro San Bernardo. The path is a steep, twisting stone stairway punctuated by prayer shrines every few hundred meters, each one representing one of the 14 stations of the cross. I think Salta seems very religious compared to Buenos Aires. It was a long, sweaty climb (1,070 stairs! winding through lush jungly forest) with beautiful views out across the city. At the top there’s a park with spectacular panoramic views and more Jesus stuff. We rode the gondola car back down and then wandered off to dinner.

We walked up the 1,070 steps to the top of the hill! And then rode the gondola cars back down.

Roasted goat for dinner in Salta

Ate roasted goat and locro (more Salteño specialties – locro is a tasty stew) and then went to listen to some folklorico music at a place recommended by our taxi driver called La Casona del Molino, it was a beautiful and crowded place with casual, spontaneous music performances, I wish we’d stayed longer. Had to wake up early for the bus to Jujuy. Two hour bus ride, then rented a car and headed out of town. Tried to visit the hot springs at Termas de Reyes but it was mysteriously closed.

Hot springs closed, waded in the icy river instead.

river valley near Yala

Waded in the river, drove onwards towards Purmamarca. Spectacular scenery as we passed Yala, as green lush river gorge turned to dramatic gravel and rock canyon, carved by water.

Quebrada de Humuhuaca

Turned up in Purmamarca and explored town, checked out the touristy handcrafts at the market and found a cheap hospedaje to sleep for the night. Purmamarca is a little tourist town with brightly colored, striated reddish mountains for a backdrop, situated in this lovely gorge, very photogenic. We discovered that we were sunburned and exhausted and hungry, went out to get dinner at a peña around the corner (peña is a place to listen to folklorico music). Had goat stew (thinking of the many cute little flocks of goats and sheep we’d encountered in the middle of the road during our days’ drive) and more locro and tamales. The peña started out a bit somber but got louder and more fun as the hour got later, with dancing and clapping and singing along. Sleepy and ready for bed now. I think we’ll go for a hike tomorrow morning, then we might head further up the gorge towards Tilcara, we’ll see.

Here we go

Leaving for Retiro, heavily laden. My pack weighs 17 kilos, yikes.

South America tour ideas

So, the idea was to not plan our trip too much – but of course we’re excited to travel and whenever we get a spare moment we can’t help ourselves from flipping through our dog-eared Lonely Planet and browsing through pictures, picking out which places we hope to see along the way. The only reservations we’ll make in advance are our first bus tickets out of Buenos Aires, our final flight home from Lima back to Buenos Aires, and we’ve reserved dates for the Choquequirao hiking trip in the middle. In between those dates we’ll just see what we feel like doing and see what fits in. We’ve never really had enough free time to travel without set plans, so we’re looking forward to having the luxury of making it up as we go along. Also, we’ve heard that transport in Bolivia can be pretty unpredictable so it’s best to keep an open itinerary with lots of extra time for delays. Anyway here are some of the places we’re hoping we might see!

first step: January 1st, 6:00 pm overnight bus from Buenos Aires Retiro bus station to Salta, arrive in Salta at 1:00 pm on January 2nd.

Convento de San Francisco, Salta

Salta street

We’ve visited Salta before but we’ll be traveling with Andrew & Vickie, who’ve never been there, so we might stop over for a few days to see this beautiful colonial city and/or visit some of the surrounding countryside, perhaps Cafayate or Cachi.

Quebrada de Las Conchas (near Cafayate), Salta, Argentina

Cuesta del Obispo. The road from Salta to Cachi runs through the Valle Encantada (The Enchanted Valley).

Then northwards to Jujuy and the Quebrada de Humuhuaca, maybe stay a night in Purmamarca or Tilcara.

Purmamarca. Jujuy provincia, Argentina.

Camino del Colorado – Quebrado de Humuhuaca, Jujuy, Argentina

If we can fit it in, we are eager to visit the isolated mountainside village of Iruya, 4 hours’ bus ride from Humuhuaca, over steep hairpin gravel roads but it sounds like it’s worth the detour.

remote mountainside town of Iruya, Salta, Argentina

Then we’ll part ways with Andrew and Vickie, who will fly out of Jujuy back to Buenos Aires and then head back to the US.

We’ll head northwards and cross the border from Argentina into Bolivia at the border town of Villazon. From Villazon there’s a train that runs north on Tuesdays and Saturdays or something like that. We’re thinking of riding the train up to Tupiza, and then in Tupiza find a jeep tour to bring us out to the salt flats (a place you can really only visit with a tour guide and a jeep). After the salt flats we’ll end up in Uyuni, and continue northwards, we’re thinking of stopping in Potosi, probably Sucre, maybe Ororu or Cochabamba, then a few days in La Paz, then on to Lake Titicaca…

Arequipa, Peru, with volcano Misti in the distance

Monasterio Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru

Monasterio Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru

TO BE CONTINUED…

going home

so… yes, we are finally making plans to move back home! and by home, i don’t just mean the united states; we’re going back to stay at my childhood home in Maine, with my parents, and look for work and our own apartment in the Portland area… hooray!

we’ll be flying out of Buenos Aires on March 3rd. Arriving in Boston on March 4th.
but first mike’s going to quit his job and we’re planning to travel around south america for a month or two! of course I’m sad to leave argentina – but very excited for all that is to come.

this is our tentative plan:

December 11th: Mike’s last day at work
then we’ll have two weeks to pack and sell everything we own!
December 29th: Andrew & Vickie coming to visit
then we’ll go travel somewhere with A&V – we’re thinking maybe go to the beach near Valparaiso, Chile, or maybe head north towards Tucuman or Salta (in the North of Argentina). We’ll definitely find somewhere beautiful and interesting to spend some quality time with them, we’re totally excited for the visit! Then maybe we’ll continue northward towards Bolivia, after they head back home. So we’ll spend January and maybe part of February exploring Bolivia and Peru by bus. We want to try and do lots of hiking. We’re thinking we might end up avoiding Machu Picchu because it’s SO touristy and expensive – there are lots of other amazing Incan ruins and beautiful hiking around the same area – this article about Choquequirao really piqued our interest!
At this point our trip plans are totally up in the air, we’ve done a ton of research but haven’t managed to figure out exactly what we want to do. We are totally open to suggestions if anybody has ideas about great stuff to do (on a small budget) in Peru and Bolivia!!! I think to some extent we will enjoy the freedom of having more time and just figuring stuff out as we go along, depending on weather or what we feel like doing or what we hear from fellow travelers we meet along the way. Our biggest concern is that January and February are rainy season in Peru and Bolivia, so that would make the going a bit harder. Supposedly there can be serious problems with muddy, impassable roads and even mudslides in Bolivia, but there’s also the chance that it will be totally fine, so we’ll see… Otherwise, there’s just a TON of stuff we really want to do and not enough time or money to do all of it. But I’m sure it will be awesome and exciting, no matter where we end up…
we’re hopefully going to have some friends staying at our house in Buenos Aires while we’re gone, taking care of the dogs and keeping an eye on the place for us.
then… sometime in the beginning or middle of February we should get back to Buenos Aires to pick up our dogs and suitcases and say goodbye. And then…
March 3: fly back to the USA! we’ll arrive in Boston in the morning on March 4th.

I can’t believe we’re really doing this – when Mike first mentioned that he wanted to go back, I thought it might be a passing whim… but a few weeks later it seems to be a real plan, and now we’ve bought our tickets so it’s definitely on. I’m sad about leaving behind Argentina and all our friends here, and there are tons of things that I’m sorry we haven’t had time to do… but we’re also totally excited about starting the next chapter in Maine, it’s always irresistibly exciting to think about what the future might bring. We really have no idea. But for sure the move to Maine will mean spending lots more time with my family, and getting to do lots more outdoorsy and nature stuff, hiking and beaches and all that good stuff. Dogs running free in the fields instead of cooped up in an apartment.

So for now, I’m trying to focus on making the most of the time we’ve got left here- spending time with friends, spending some good hours making stuff in my studio, going out to see all the museums and places that we’ve always wanted to check out but somehow never got around to visiting.

Trimarchi

man, I have been totally crazy these past few weeks, working on this and that and the other. Teaching, freelance work, endless errands, chores, etc. It all kind of blurs together. Except for one awesome thing that I did the other weekend: I joined my friends Tyler and Flavia of Nomad Ink for a trip to Mar del Plata, Argentina to attend the 8th annual Trimarchi design conference (TMDG for short).

Alex Trochut presenting at TMDG

It was awesome, Tyler and Flavia really took me under their wing and made me feel like part of the family. I got to help out with the Cross-Cultural Design Workshop that they presented, and they introduced me to about a million exciting and talented designers. They’re based out of Curitiba, Brazil – and they introduced me to lots of other interesting Brazilian designers, such as their friends from Colletivo, who were one of the major presenters at the conference. Colletivo’s presentation was really impressive and they were all totally nice and fun to hang out with.

fun work by Brazilian design studio Colletivo

The whole trip was totally fun and a bit of sensory overload with so many interesting things to do and see and learn about. A million thanks to Tyler and Flavia for really making it an awesome weekend!

Tyler and Flavia, aka Nomad Ink

Nomad Ink’s Cross-Cultural Design Workshop

Atypica booth, Trimarchi

warm afternoon on the beach, Mar del Plata

Carmelo, Uruguay

Went to Carmelo, Uruguay for the whole day on Sunday. I have to leave the country every few months, because I’m not a legal resident of Argentina. I just have to cross the border and then come back again. I usually just go across the river to Uruguay for a day. This time I went alone, and it was my first time visiting Carmelo. I like traveling by myself every now and then. I just walked around all day and sat around under trees, reading and drawing pictures.

Carmelo is a quiet, small-time tourist town on the wide brown Río de la Plata. It has a sandy river beach and a few hotels. I imagine it gets a little busy with Argentine and Uruguayan tourists in the hottest months of the summer, but it’s early spring now, everything was pretty empty. One one side is the town, lots of cobblestone streets and typical one-story houses, lots of great art deco architectural details and great old signage. There are a handful of old hotels and nice old theatre buildings.

There’s a central plaza with a church and a few businesses, two restaurants and the deserted Club Uruguay. Across the bridge, there’s more grass and trees, horses and goats grazing in peoples’ yards, a few boat clubs and if you walk about 20 minutes you get to the beach, it’s in a big park with campsites and a few desolate-looking beachside restaurant type places. Everyone here seems to be riding a little motor scooter, I think if I came back again I would totally look into renting a scooter too.

I left home before dawn to catch a train out to Tigre, and then in Tigre I caught a ferry, it’s a three-hour ride out through the delta and across the river to Carmelo. Stayed there all day and then caught the 8:00 ferry home, got into Tigre around 10:45 and then finally got home around midnight. Long day. But a nice one.

a(n incomplete) designer’s guide to buenos aires

stencil/graffiti mural in Carabobo subte station

every now and then friends ask me about art-and-design-related stuff to do and things to see in Buenos Aires. It’s fun answering this question; the city is bountiful of eye candy. I’ve been sticking together a rough and of course incomplete list of memorable places and things to suggest to like-minded design enthusiasts, here’s what i’ve got so far:

DESIGN SHOPS:

Papelera Palermo = Palermo Soho. beautiful space selling handmade and hand-printed papers, notebooks, art books, etc… retail store at Honduras 4945. they also have a workshop where they give classes (and make most of the stuff sold in the shop) at Cabrera 5227

CouCou

CouCou = gurruchaga 1783. Palermo Soho. very cute little shop that carries lots of fun objects made by independent designers: home goods, stationery, jewelry, lots of cute tote-bags, baby clothes, etc. The owner Emi is very nice and friendly! She has a great eye, the store always looks super cute and she has a wonderful selection of interesting things!

Fabrolab = Nicaragua 4677. Palermo Soho. big space with some of everything.

Calma Chicha = Honduras 4925. Palermo. home & interior stuff, modern poppy vibe. i think they specialize in argentine-made goods.

Pic Nic = Nicaragua 6080. Palermo Hollywood. patterned wallpaper, pillows, etc. Not really original designs, but fun and colorful.

Cualquier Verdura

Cualquier Verdura = Humberto 1º 517. San Telmo. a beautiful house filled with good-quality vintage stuff, tchotchkes, kitsch, toys, games, a few clothes, mid-century modern furniture, fun stuff. Even the bathroom is fitted out with fun vintage stuff for sale.
Wussman = Venezuela 570. San Telmo. art gallery in the front and a wonderful stationery shop with fine papers and gifts and a letterpress printing operation in the back and an art-books-store downstairs.

El Mercado de las Pulgas

El Mercado de las Pulgas = Niceto Vega y Dorrego. Palermo Hollywood. Flea market with lots of modern home stuff.

La Pasionaria = Godoy Cruz 1541. Palermo Soho. wonderful warehouse filled with a jumble of vintage 20th century objects, , Palermo Soho. (open 4pm-8pm mon-fri, 11-8 sat)

Canasta = Delgado 1235. Colegiales. a tiny little gallery/bookstore/shop. minimal, eclectic and cute. open tues-sat 2pm-7pm.

CLOTHING:

Lupe = El Salvador 4657, Palermo Soho

and on the same block, Rapsodia. El Salvador 4757, Palermo Soho

AY Not Dead = Soler 4193, Palermo Soho

Pesqueria = armenia 1493. Palermo Soho.

Juana de Arco = El Salvador 4762. Palermo Soho.

Objeto = gurruchaga 1335. Palermo Soho.

Tramando = Rodriquez Peña 1973. Recoleta. interesting textiles and clothing by designer Martin Churba.

DAM = Honduras 4775. Palermo Soho. wacky stuff.

CAFES / RESTAURANTS / etc

Lepi Boulangerie = Roseti 1769. Chacarita. Cute bakery.

Oui Oui = Nicaragua 6068. Palermo Hollywood. coffee shop, bakery, café

Arevalito = Arevalo 1478. Palermo Hollywood. Delicious, filling, homey vegetarian café. Good coffee too. And they serve food all day long (many other BsAs restaurants close down between 2pm and 8pm which often causes visiting yankees searching for an afternoon snack to become hunger-crazed and desperate during these hours!)

an uncharacteristically quiet afternoon at Ølsen

Olsen = Gorriti 5870. Palermo Hollywood. lofty scandinavian restaurant, good brunch and impressive design (from the menus to the plates to the architecture of the restaurant itself)

Milion = Parana 1048. Recoleta. Cool, fancy bar/restaurant in a converted mansion. It’s a beautiful space. It’s always nice to have a mojito in the upstairs bar. (the bar-top is glowing alabaster!)

Cusic = El Salvador 6016. Palermo Hollywood. Cute, quiet café with two nice gardens.

Home Hotel = Honduras 5860. really cute boutique hotel with a nice bar/restaurant in the back, lovely view of the garden and pool from the café, i think in nice weather you can eat in the garden. It’s a great spot for brunches or afternoon tea. They have different cool wallpaper in each room, it’s worth taking a peek around. And they have a wonderful spa if you want to drop a bit of cash on a massage or a day of pampering.

La Catedral

La Catedral = Sarmiento 4006 (corner of Medrano). Almagro. Scruffy, dark & atmospheric tango bar, upstairs in an immense dusty warehouse.

COFFEE SHOPS & BOOKSTORES etc

Eterna Cadencia = Honduras 5574. Palermo Hollywood.a beautiful space, bookstore and cafe.

El Boutique del Libro

El Boutique del Libro = Thames 1762. Palermo Soho. another cozy bookstore/cafe. A great place to take a break from wandering around Palermo, or to bring your laptop and get some work done while you drink coffee. (ED: since this post was written, this bookstore has changed names. El Boutique del Libro opened a new location on Plaza Armenia; this bookstore is now operating under a different name but is otherwise unchanged!)

Helena = Nicaragua 4816. Palermo Soho. Cute coffee shop (no books)

El Ateneo

Ateneo Grand Splendid = Santa Fe 1860. Recoleta. This is a really impressive bookstore, converted from an old movie theater, and the café is located on the stage!

ART & GALLERIES

Espacio Fundación Telefonica = Arenales 1540. Recoleta. Arts foundation with exhibitions in gallery spaces, also an extensive library of art books, workshops, events, etc.

Fundacion PROA = Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929. La Boca. Contemporary arts museum & gallery space

Hollywood in Cambodia = Thames 1885. Palermo Soho. Graffiti art gallery and bar. Open 5pm – 9pm

Jardin Oculto = Venezuela 926. San Telmo. Art gallery

713 ARTE CONTEMPORANEO = Defensa 713. San Telmo. Art gallery.
http://www.arte713.com

Centro Cultural Borges / Galerias Pacifico = Viamonte esquina San Martín. Centro. art museum (CC Borges) is located upstairs from a very luxe shopping mall (Galerias Pacifico) in a beautiful old building.

MISC:

Graffiti Mundo tour = sounds like fun! It’s a tour of walls, galleries and studios to learn about different artists in the Buenos aires graffiti scene.

A FEW INTERESTING LOCAL DESIGNERS AND ARTISTS:

KOMware

Ana Laura Perez

Patricia Tewel

Lala Ladcani

Marina de Caro (Bola de Nieve)

http://www.proyectopanda.com.ar/

Cristian Turdera